One of the best things about travelling is noticing the differences. In many ways Japan is similar to the U.K. which only added to the contrast when we spotted the weird and the wonderful. Without further ado, here’s a random list of things that made us smile during our 3 months in Japan..
There are drinks vending machines on just about every street corner. Sometimes they stand together in pairs and have staring contests with the pair of vending machines on the opposite corner.
Vending machines have taken over Japan. This one was lurking at a temple, and they even climb mountains. Rumour has it there’s one at the top of Mt Fuji..
Japan is a very clean country, but you’ll rarely see a litter bin. There are bottle bins next to most vending machines, and we occasionally found recycling bins, but public cigarette ashtrays are more common than general waste bins. We later learned that the Japanese thinking is this: rubbish bins attract rubbish.
Yes, it’s true – the Japanese queue in an orderly fashion for everything, especially trains and subways. It made us a little homesick.. ;o)
The red and green men at pedestrian crossings are smartly dressed and wear hats.
It’s all in the details. Pedestrian crossing lights in Japan are properly attired
Train guards bow when entering each carriage, and turn to bow again before leaving.
Toilet seats are heated and often include bidets and spray functions. This should be the standard across the world – they’re fantastic!
Japanese toilet controls. This one also includes a “flushing sound” to mask one’s embarrassment of a Delhi belly
Speaking of toilets, bathrooms often have their own slippers to save getting your normal slippers (or socks) dirty, even some public bathrooms in palaces, temples or shrines!
Most restaurants don’t have English menus, but it doesn’t matter because either the menus have pictures or there’s an elaborate display of fake plastic food outside. Note that the more expensive food is generally pictured in menus and the translated menu may not have all the choices of the Japanese version.
Plastic food outside a restaurant in Japan
“Hai” means “yes” in Japanese, but it’s used so frequently that it’s more akin to “yep”, “OK”, and “right” or “correct” in English.
Ink stamps are everywhere. Every museum, historic point of interest and hiking trail will have at least one custom rubber stamp on a chain with an ink pad. Top tip for visiting Japan – take a small notebook with you to collect the stamps in!
Business hotels often provide yukata, which are simple wrap-style Japanese nightgowns, and slippers.
Manhole covers are often specific to the town, city or area, and have wonderfully creative and colourful designs.
Different designs on the manhole covers around Japan, often in colour and usually feature a motif or landmark of the area. Clockwise from top-left: Gassho-zukuri houses in Shirakawago; Deer in Nara; Momotaro fire-fighting in Okayama; The peony from Kumamoto
As well as the fantastic public gardens, we’ve found that the Japanese take great pride in the appearance of their private gardens too. We’ve yet to see one that wasn’t beautiful and well organised. The same goes for their allotments!
Japanese private gardens and allotments are as well ordered as the public ones
The Japanese love their bicycles. They like to ride them on the pavement, they rarely have lights (or if they do, they rarely use them) and when it’s raining, they can cycle while carrying an umbrella!
Japanese man on a bicycle holding an umbrella. Even if the bicycle has a bell, the Japanese are too polite to use it, instead they purposefully neglect their bicycle so the chain and gears are rusty and the brakes squeal so you as a pedestrian can hear them coming up behind you
More people smoke than we were expecting, and smoking in restaurants and bars is still permitted. There are restrictions being applied to shopping centres and streets, and some restaurant chains have glassed-off smoking areas or are completely non-smoking.
Japan is a very safe place, and there’s very little theft – we even saw people leave their cars running with the doors unlocked and windows open outside convenience stores while they nipped inside!
This max’d out Nissan 350Z was left running in the car park of a 7-11 while the owner nipped inside for a pack of cigarettes. We saw so many cars left running outside shops, and delivery scooters with the keys in them!
Digital cameras and camera phones are required by law to make a shutter noise, to deter sneaky snapshots (source).
Fruit and veg are priced per piece and not by weight, including apples, onions and even potatoes!
.. and speaking of apples, they’re huge, like the size of lawn bowls huge.
School seems to be more day trips than sitting in classrooms because we saw so many groups of schoolchildren visiting historic sights and museums.
Us with a group of schoolchildren having just practiced their English with us in Kyoto. We saw so many groups of kids that school in Japan must consist entirely of day trips!
Cash machines only dispense ¥10,000 (£60) notes, but we’ve never had trouble getting one changed even in small shops and restaurants.
Babies and toddlers are often transported in trollies!
Can you think of a suitable caption? Post a comment below!
Street maps are already orientated, which is very handy once we’d realised it, but we were initially confused why North pointed in seemingly random directions!
I’d been looking for the bonkers Japan since we arrived, and Tokyo delivered. Sure, it’s a capital city much like any other in that it’s full of well-dressed people in a rush to get somewhere, but when the Tokyoites relax, they have an almost unthinkably crazy selection of things to choose from. Here are a few of the ones we were brave enough to try, with a few of my other favourite sights in Tokyo.
Shibuya Crossing
Shibuya’s scramble crossing, one of the busiest in the world and a common meeting place before a night out
The final closing scene of Fast and Furious 6 with an amazing 360 shot of Shibuya crossing
The Lockup
The Lockup, one of the many themed restaurants in Tokyo
While researching places to eat, I discovered the genre of “entertainment restaurants” and knew this was something we had to try. I decided on “The Lockup” and once we’d found it we cautiously ventured down the stairs and opened the door to a dark, empty corridor. If this were any other restaurant we’d have thought they were closed, but we took a few steps in and triggered the lights on a barrel of toxic waste.. up ahead we could make out a hunched-over figure in an electric chair and all the while we were waiting for someone to jump out at us! The haunted castle-like entrance almost robbed us of our appetite, but we pressed on until we reached another door where we were greeted and asked to wait for a table.
A minute or so later a waitress dressed provocatively in a cross between an official police uniform and a frilly maid-cafe outfit recited the rules before putting me in handcuffs and leading us to our table!
Half of the menu was themed cocktails with names like “Electric shock”, “Human Experiment Z” and “Lethal Injection”, all served in laboratory glassware which was great fun.
A selection of the cocktails we ordered at The Lockup
The food was likewise themed and presented in creative ways, such as a crucifix-shaped pizza, “Friday the 13th Salad” and their speciality of “Charcoal Chicken” which looks so charred I wondered if my Uncle Bob had barbecued it ;o)
Our food had just arrived when suddenly the lights went out, a dramatic conversation between a husband and wife started playing over the speakers that quickly escalated into fear and screaming. No-one knew what was going on. The 2 girls on the table of 4 behind us swapped so the boys were near the door to our cell, and then we started hearing real screams from the restaurant that were getting closer.. it was pretty terrifying! I caught a glimpse of something in white rags run past our cell and heard what sounded like a fire-extinguisher going off before the dramatic music faded and the lights came back on! Whew!
Our food at The Lockup in Shibuya (left to right): Friday the 13th Salad (because it has 13 ingredients); Firebowl Beef which the waiter set on fire!; Crucifix-shaped Pizza; and their signature Charcoal Chicken
The cocktails were good fun, and I’d recommend the strongest ones as we couldn’t taste any alcohol in the medium ones. The food was pretty good which surprised us as we’d read mixed reviews, I’d say it was akin to good chain-pub food back home, lots of variety, freshly prepared and tasty too.
Akihabara – Electric City
One of the many electronic components stalls in Akihabara that specialise in one thing – LED lights, switches, enclosures, transformers or in this case, capacitors
Akihabara’s reputation for technology started in the 1920s with the opening of an electronic radio parts shop. One after another opened up nearby and soon the area was an electrical engineer’s heaven. While there’s still an area of electronics supply shops selling all manner of components and gadgets, nowadays Akihabara is consumer electronics, pop music sensation AKB48, geek culture, maid cafes, and of course, the thing we visited for – video game arcades!
The multi-floor arcade palaces of Akihabara: One of the two Taito arcades (this one is 7 storeys); Super Potato! – the Nintendo-focused 3 floors of second-hand games, like a bricks-and-mortar eBay, whose top floor is also a small arcade; Sega also have two multi-storey arcades – Club Sega is 7 storeys; and the Hirose Entertainment Yard – head straight to the 2nd floor!
Julie and I (OK, mostly I) playing video games. Oh yeah! From top-left: Rows of beat-em-ups; Generations of consoles in the excellent Super Potato!; An entire floor dedicated to Gunslinger Stratos 2; Me playing Mario Kart Arcade GP DX; One of the countless rows of shmups in Taito HEY; Julie concentrating hard playing Mario Kart Arcade GP DX (she also came 1st!); One of about 12 Lord of Vermillion III arcades that seemed to be the lovechild of DoTA and a CCG; Me in Super Potato reliving fond memories of the hours my brother Dan and I spent on Double Dragon; Plenty of inventive arcade games such as this one where you have to flip a table in rage!
The Taito HEY’s 2nd floor is full of shmups or “Shoot-em Ups” (side scrolling shooting games), many of which were released when my brother and I were at school and just getting into video games, and it was great wandering down the aisles like a digital memory lane. I just had to play a few of them for old-times sake ;o)
It was cool to see that the art of the video-game cabinet has moved on apace in Japan. There are entire floors given over to single titles like Gunslinger Stratos 2 and Ultra Street Fighter IV, where all of the machines are connected for multiplayer. Some looked like they were connected to the internet (to other arcades, perhaps?) which could mean city, country or world-wide battles and competitions, and Lord of Vermillion III seemed to involve buying or trading character cards, where the action was controlled by moving the cards on a special surface and issuing commands on a touch screen.
All of the arcades were really loud, and sadly we found them to be pretty smoky too. After a couple of hours Julie and I started getting headaches.
Koshikawa Korakuen Garden
Koshikawa Korakuen Garden – one the oldest and best preserved parks in Tokyo
If you’ve been following our adventure, you will already know that I love gardens, and especially Japanese ones. Surrounded by trees, streams and ponds it was easy to forget that we were in the centre of Tokyo – until the theme park next door started blaring dance music at 10am!
The “indoor garden” section of Koshikawa Korakuen attracts many artists trying to capture the beauty and tranquility
Koshikawa Korakuen is known for its bridges: The Tsutenkyo Bridge; and the Engetsukyo or “Full-Moon” bridge
After a 2 hour stroll, we read on the way out that the garden was originally 4 times its current size – now that’d be a lot of strolling!
Tokyo National Museum
Honkan – the main building of the Tokyo National Museum
The Tokyo National Museum is the longest running museum in Japan, and its collection is about 114,000 items of which only 4,000 are on display at any given time.
While many museums would try to display as many items as possible, the TNM’s starting point – the second floor of the Honkan building – presents just a handful of antiquities per era which gives a nice taster of the periods in Japanese history. The ground floor is then given over to rooms filled with antiquities by genre or type – Buddha statues, pottery and ceramics, samurai swords, theatre costumes, etc.
We loved the layout – it was a really good way of holding our interest and keeping our attention. All too often in museums we find ourselves fatigued at having looked at so many examples of one thing that they all tend to lose their importance.
Exhibits in the Tokyo National Museum, Honkan building (clockwise from top left): Dogu (clay figurine) Jomon period 2000-1000 BC; Seated Yakushi Nyorai, Heian Period 9th century; Seven Sages in the Bamboo Grove folding screen, Muromachi period 16th century; Kariginu (Noh theatre costume), Edo period 18th century; “Kanze Masamune” Katana Sword, Kamakura period 14th century; Domaru Type Armour, Muromachi period 15th century
We also visited the very zen-like building of The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures, which houses an exquisite collection of standing Buddha figures.
The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures. View of one of the many rows of Buddha figurines with “Standing Kannon Bosatsu” at the forefront, Asuka period 7th century; Closeup of a different depiction of Standing Kannon Bosatsu, Asuka period 7th century
Harajuku
Aside from the Japanese youth culture and fashion, there were a lot of street stalls advertising shows – which is what we assumed this guy dressed as a robot was doing!
Harajuku is a suburb of west Tokyo that sits between the exclusive boutiques of Omotesando and the bustle of entertainment in Shibuya, and is known for its sub-culture of alternative fashion style which young people dress up and show off at weekends. Their style inspired Gwen Stefani’s song Harajuku Girls – now you know what she was singing about!
Before heading into the heart of Harajuku, we paid a visit to the Meiji Jingu Shrine and we arrived in time to witness a wedding party parade through the main temple square.
A wedding party parade through the main square of the Meiji Jingu Shrine in Harajuku
My favourite photo of the day, (presumably) a Shinto priest waits for the signal to play the drum as part of the wedding ceremony at the Meiji Jingu Shrine in Harajuku
After the Meiji Jingu Shrine, our route through Harajuku took us down the unfortunately transliterated “Takeshita Street”, which was as busy as the Shibuya crossing!
Takeshita Street, the main shopping street for sub-culture fashion in Japan. And crepes filled with just about everything, including cheesecake. Yes, cheesecake in a crepe. Genius.
As I’d read, the dressed up locals are few and far between these days and the most outrageous costumes we saw were worn by some of the shop staff! However, our favourite shop of Harajuku was on Cat Street called B-Side Labels – touting original stickers with a distinctly Japanese attitude. I’m not really one for putting stickers on things, but had I spent more time in this shop I would have been converted, they’re fantastic!
B-Side Label in Cat Street, Harajuku. STICKER ALL THE THINGS!
Ghibli Museum
Plaque near the entrance to the Ghibli Museum. I’ve no idea why it’s in French!
Yes, Julie included the Ghibli Museum in her list of Tokyo highlights, but I had to include it in mine too. I loved the focus it has towards children; lots of little tunnels and walkways for kids to explore, and no set path through the museum – once you get your ticket (which includes 3 frames from an actual Studio Ghibli movie roll) and descend the staircase, where you go is up to you!
I also loved the attention to detail, like the face in this manhole cover in the courtyard
I hadn’t seen any Studio Ghibli movies before we arrived in Japan, I’m glad we watched a few before we visited, as it was fun to spot the characters hiding all over the building.
Mount Fuji is the highest mountain in Japan, its near-perfect conical shape is iconic the world over, and its image can be seen in art, jewellery, clothing, sweets, cakes, posters and even toilet paper.
Mount Fuji-san, beautiful
The Hike
2305m: The starting point of the popular Yoshida Trail – Yoshida-guchi 5th Station (of 10). We weren’t expecting it to be so busy with day-trippers who had arrived by coach to shop and eat ice-cream!
2305m: Us at the 5th Station, we joined in with the day-trippers and had our photo taken, but we didn’t stop for ice-cream, we’ve got a mountain to climb!
2305m: The Yoshida Trail really starts just around the corner from the souvenir shops. Less than 5 minutes in we find that there’s still snow on the ground at the end of June and hardly another person in sight
2390m: Just past Station 6 the ascent begins up the gravelly alien landscape of volcanic Mount Fuji. These large barriers are to prevent and protect against landslides
2672m: Snow blocks the trail just before the 7th Station. We’re still two weeks from the start of the official hiking season when the trails are cleared and the first-aid huts are manned
2673m: Undeterred, we carefully make our way through the snow by kicking in footholds
2700m: Stopped for lunch at one of the many huts on the Yoshida Trail. They’ll all be open in a couple of weeks time but for now they’ll do as wind-breaks!
2800m: If it weren’t for these ropes, we’d have no idea where to go
2820m: We decided to stop at the torii we spotted off in the distance, can you see it?
2850m: Us at Torii-no, which is roughly half-way between Stations 7 and 8. It’s as far as we can go this time otherwise we’ll miss our bus home!
2850m: This is the view as we start our descent, that cloud can roll in quickly!
2305m: The Yoshida 5th Station – just as busy as when we left it 5 hours ago!
2305m: As we were about to get on the bus, Mount Fuji-san appeared in a break of cloud to say farewell. We’ll be back and next time we’ll make it to the top!
We rested our tired feet and filled our bellies with the local Fuji delicacy of Hōtō – vegetable stew with noodles (and beef in this case), yum!
Cycling around 4 of the Fuji 5 lakes
There are 5 lakes to the north of Mt Fuji, and as our guesthouse offered free bicycle rental, we decided to see if we could visit them all, except Lake Yamanakako because it’s a bit too far away.
We started at Lake Kawaguchiko, the largest of the 5 and the most commercially developed. We saw a waterskier, lots of little row-boats for hire along the southern bank and two small islands at the western-end
Cycling around the lakes seemed like a good idea – there are paths or roads around them, and these kinds of roads are usually pretty flat. However, we hadn’t considered the connecting roads given that this is a pretty mountainous region. All this to say that the road joining Lake Kawaguchiko to Lake Saiko was steep. After a long climb and a short tunnel the road descended to the next lake, but all we could think about was having to do it all again in reverse! Compared to Lake Kawaguchiko, Lake Saiko looks like it is set up for quiet fishing, and surrounded by steep hills it felt very tranquil
Lake Shojiko is the smallest of the Fuji Five Lakes, and also looks set up for quiet fishing. It seemed to be very popular with the locals as it’s further from the beaten track
We took a break from the saddle and walked up a short hiking trail to Mt Shiroyama for a spot of lunch. The view of Mt Fuji would have been great except for the clouds…
The westernmost Lake Motosuko looks to be the most water sports-friendly. There were windsurfers out when we got there, and there were plenty of campsites, hotels and picnic areas just a stone’s throw from the shoreline. The main reason we wanted to visit this lake is because of the famous view of Mt Fuji that can be seen on the lowest denomination bank note – ¥1,000 – is from Lake Motosuko
As we reached the viewpoint, the clouds cleared a little and Mt Fuji appeared once more to remind us it’ll still be here when we return to Japan.
Julie and I were a bit skeptical about stopping off in Kobe for a couple of days, as we wondered what else there might be to do in this city famous the world over for the quality of its beef. Well, we couldn’t just eat steak all day now could we..
Teppanyaki Kobe Beef at Steakland
Steakland in Kobe, purveyors of the finest, most meltingly delicious beef we’ve ever had
We were all set to visit a restaurant called Mouriya which has fantastic reviews, until we got talking to the folks at our hostel who recommended the theme-park-named “Steakland“, which we were assured was as good if not better.
It was very easy to find, and when we arrived we found out the whole place is set up for teppanyaki – a cooking style where the chef cooks at the table on a large hot plate, which we later found out was invented in Kobe.
Our chef preparing the famous Kobe beef. Mouth watering level at the time this photo was taken: 11
We watched our chef carefully, masterfully prepare our Kobe steak, before he placed the bite-size morsels on our plate. The texture on the tongue was of lightly seared beef, which gave in to our bite with all the resistance of a marshmallow. Then the fattiness and flavour of the beef hit us. Mmmmmm.. bliss. It is, to my carnivorous brain, the final evolution of the art of consuming beef. Yep, even to my well-travelled tastebuds, this is the best steak I’ve ever had.
Kobe beef, in Kobe, cooked in the teppanyaki Kobe style
Kobe Earthquake Museum
The Kobe Earthquake Museum. Why did they surround it with glass?
The Kobe Earthquake Museum, or to give it its full title: “The Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake Memorial, Disaster Reduction and Human Renovation Institution” (whew!) retells the story of the massive earthquake that occurred on the 17th of January 1995, measuring 6.8 on the Moment magnitude scale (the successor to the Richter magnitude scale).
The Museum starts abruptly with an immersive recreation of the earthquake which happened in the early hours of the morning. The theatre is dark. The scene is set with stills of Kobe’s streets, shops and offices before the video and deafening sounds of breaking civilisation completely disorientated us.
The video includes CCTV footage of shops and offices, and the devastation wrought was unbelievable. As we have travelled for the past 15 months we’ve recognised places and names, mostly because we’ve seen or heard about them on the news, but neither of us recalled anything of this disaster which took 6,434 lives.
Collapsed sections of the Hanshin Expressway caused by the Kobe Earthquake. Source: My photo of a photo on display in the museum
The museum goes on to describe the immediate aftermath, which was explained to us by very friendly English speaking members of staff who added their own stories of the tragedy. It was fascinating to hear that so many rules and procedures have been introduced as a result of the Kobe disaster. Some examples we were told about were that relief efforts were delayed because of hierarchical authorisation which has been changed in the event of earthquakes, and that fires were caused by the electricity being reconnected – now they inspect the power lines and restore it in stages.
Demonstration area in the Kobe Earthquake Museum. Clockwise from the top: Staff teach schoolchildren (and us!) about liquefaction; Liquefaction demonstration – only one house remains standing because it has deep foundations, the coloured balls represent underground services such as water, gas and sewerage; Map of the world showing the tectonic plates and locations of volcanoes, earthquakes, impact craters and plate tectonics
Engineers and support staff from Kobe have provided assistance at subsequent earthquake relief efforts not just in Japan, but around the world. We thought the interactive visual displays were excellent; a simple bucket of sand demonstrated liquefaction, and a vibrating table demonstrated seismic base isolation.
Kawasaki Good Times World
Me having a Good Times™, marvelling at all the machinery Kawasaki have built through the years
With the delightfully translated name of “Good Times World”, the history and accomplishments of the Kawasaki company was pleasantly impressive – for being more interesting than we had hoped, the amount of information on show, and for the breadth of industries Kawasaki has been involved in.
Julie and I take turns sitting on the Kawasaki Ninja 400 Special Edition
We learnt a lot about the company and its creations that we had no idea about before, like they build the Shinkansen bullet trains and the tracks, they still make huge container and transport ships which is how the company started, they own the trade mark “Jet Ski” and they built the machines that dug the Eurotunnel!
The museum has examples of almost everything they make, which we had fun climbing into and playing with.
Good Times. Clockwise from top left: First generation Shinkansen; Me at the controls; Julie taking charge of a much more modern tram; Me on the Shinkansen arcade game / simulator (which I was rubbish at – sorry Uncle Ken!); Julie on the Jet Ski arcade; Me on the Jet Ski arcade
Kawasaki Good Times World – Good Times indeed!
Nunobiki Waterfall, Herb Gardens and Ropeway
Just 5 minutes north of the Kobe Shinkansen bullet train station is a narrow valley between Mt Futatabi and Mt Maya that leads up to the Nunobiki waterfall.
The Nunobiki waterfall, a serene place so close to the bustle of Kobe
A little further up the trail we passed a reservoir which would have been a welcome stop were it not for the annoying public announcement being looped through loudpseakers!
A Kobe reservoir. It holds water. We didn’t stop for long. What more can I say?
We pressed on, and made it to the Nunobiki Herb Gardens and Ropeway, which can also be reached by said ropeway from the lowest cablecar station near the Shinkansen train terminal.
The Herb Gardens purport to be Japan’s largest herb and flower garden, with some 200 species blooming throughout the year. We really enjoyed the variety of the gardens, and as we’ve come to expect in Japan it’s very well laid out too, although as we started at the bottom some of the hills were quite steep to walk up!
Kobe Nunobiki Herb and Flower Gardens, which also have a great view over downtown Kobe
Herbs and flowers at the Kobe Herb and Flower Garden. Clockwise from top-left: Honey bee collecting lavender pollen, round yellow flower (Allium); pretty blue flower (Cornflower); pointy yellow flower (Lupin)
As well as the herbs and flowers, the gardens have a number of art installations, and a lovely greenhouse complete with a herbal foot-bath that Julie couldn’t resist after all the walking we’d done!
Complimentary herbal foot-bath
While she soaked her weary feet, we ate the various flavours of bagel we’d carried from the bakery next-door to our hostel, and admired the view over Kobe.
It was a nice, peaceful end to our couple of days in this fascinating stopover, and a great way to make room for more delicious Kobe beef!
We’d heard from fellow travellers and recent TripAdvisor reviews that Himeji’s main attraction and a highlight of Japan – the magnificent Himeji Castle – was in the final stages of restoration, and everyone suggested visiting after March 2015. But, we’re in Japan now, and Himeji was en-route so we figured that we’d stop off anyway and see how much of this famous castle we could actually see.
Himeji Castle in June 2014, just a little scaffolding obscuring our view. Although it was possible to visit the grounds and fortifications, the castle’s main keep was off-limits
Arriving with expectations of the castle being completely covered, we were delighted to find an almost un-obscured view of the resplendently restored Himeji main keep.
Because the cranes were still dismantling the scaffolding, the keep and its courtyard were cordoned off, which was slightly annoying because we were still charged full admission! However, as we found in Matsumoto, there were volunteers who offer free guided tours and as Himeji was quiet we got one all to ourselves.
The defensive embrasures of Himeji Castle
Our excellent guide walked us through the battlements and defences, and we especially liked the different shaped embrasures designed for specific defence weaponry: square and circular ones for rifles, and tall rectangles for bow and arrows. The different shaped windows brought to mind a scene from the children’s TV show ‘Play School’ – “let’s look through the round window“.
We really like having a guide with us as they’re so enthusiastic about the castle and its history. As well as translating a lot of the exhibits they often add a lot of historical context and stories about Japanese history that isn’t included in the displays.
Our volunteer guide translated this list of samurai names, posts and salaries. Being a top samurai was very well remunerated! (Salary is the top line)
We opted for the combined entry ticket which included the Koko-en gardens west of the castle. Reminiscent of the walled Forbidden City in Beijing (though not even slightly symmetrical), the gardens are separated by passageways of high walls.
Cho-on-sai guest house in the Koko-en gardens. We sat here for about 20 minutes just watching the Koi
As much as I enjoy Japanese castles for their engineering, symmetry and finish, I think I enjoy Japanese gardens more, for their immaculate control over nature and the inclusion of ponds and waterfalls.
Our view of the garden and the waterfall from Cho-on-sai
Koko-en is a collection of 9 gardens, each with a different theme. The first is a typical tea ceremony garden, arranged so the view is best from the guest house.
The ‘flatly landscaped garden’. We sheltered from a little rain in its pagoda
The fourth, fifth and sixth gardens share a fast-flowing, winding stream, and each has little bridges or stepping stones that invite the wanderer to cross. These joined gardens are seasonal – the ‘garden of summer trees’, and the ‘garden of winter trees’ are designed so there’s a different focal point depending on the time of year, and I thought it was also a clever metaphor – walking through the seasons is like walking through the passage of time.
But the eighth garden was my favourite. It’s a clever design of two looping pathways that each return you to your starting position, backdropped by Himeji castle.
The excitingly named ‘garden with a hill and pond’ was my favourite of Koko-en. I liked the stepping stones and the single large pond
We feel pretty fortunate about our visit to Himeji. The external construction works were all but complete and we were afforded some great views.